Do not use hot rocks to heat your Leopard Geckos’s cage. In fact, they do not warm the air enough for most reptiles. Use a combination of undertank heating to gently warm a portion of the substrate with a regular light bulb for heat during the day. Even better are the ceramic elements that screw into a fixture just like a light bulb, but do not give off any light. (Red light bulbs are ok for night time use also as reptiles can’t see the red light.) These can be left on all night whereas regular light bulbs must be turned off at night. Leave the heating pad on all night most of the time. A thermostat would take care of this for you and adjust accordingly.
It is okay. He/she is just shedding. Babies will shed quite frequently while they are growing as they grow out of their old skin very quickly. You may want to gently mist them with water when this occurs to make shedding easier. They will eat their shed skin so don’t be surprised if you come home one day and your previously white gecko is again sporting his/her bright colors yet there is no shed skin in the cage. The only thing you have to do is to make sure that when they are done shedding that all the skin came off between their toes. If it didn’t you can wet the gecko and GENTLY try and work it out. Be very careful. you don’t want to take the toes off! Don’t worry if they don’t eat during this time.
Leopard Geckos will often shed at night while you can’t keep an eye on them. To make matters “worse” they will eat the shed so there is no evidence either. To combat bad sheds there should be a “humidity chamber” available at all times for the gecko to hide in. These are the same as an egg laying chamber. You can make one out of any “tupperware type” container. Cut a hole in the side for an entrance, put damp sphagnum moss or vermiculite (from a plant nursery) about an inch or so deep. Leave the cover on to keep the moisture inside and voila, instant humidty chamber just like their native burrows in Pakistan.
Baby Leopard Geckos are nearly impossible to sex. The only way to have a good idea is to know your breeder. You see, the sex of Leopard Geckos is determined by the temperature the eggs were incubated at. Eggs incubated at between 79-84 degrees generally produce females, at between 86-90 degrees males are produced. Eggs incubated at 85 degrees may produce a mixture of male and females. (There can be hot females and cool males that don’t reproduce well but that is another story.) If you do not know the breeder you will have to wait until the Leopard Gecko matures a bit to be able to tell. 6 months is a good age to be able to start to tell. (Breeders and experienced herpetologists can generally give a good idea before this time though.) When they mature, male Leopard Geckos get a row of very noticeable pores shaped like a “V” between their legs in front of the vent. If these pores are “invisible” or hardly noticeable you have a female. Males are generally larger and have blockier heads while females are more streamlined in the head area.
It sounds like you bought 2 male Leopard Geckos. Babies get along fine until they start to mature. Then males will fight and often draw blood. They may even fight to the death in captivity. For this reason we recommend either buying one gecko at a time or keeping your geckos seperated.
This is most often due to rough handling as opposed to cagemates squabbling. Leopard Geckos and African Fat-Tail Geckos store all of their fat in their tails. Once the tail is lost they can no longer store fat (until it grows back) and thus are more prone to starvation. If the gecko lives alone the only thing you need to do is make sure that he/she is fed well and kept warm enough. If the gecko has cagemates it is best to seperate him/her from the others so you can be sure he/she is eating enough and is not getting picked on. The tail will grow back although it will not look as attractive as it once did. It will be more bulbous and more of a solid color. Once it has grown back all the way the lizard is as good as new and may rejoin it’s cagemates. (Observe them to make sure there is no fighting. If there is you may have more than one male. See question #4)
No, Leopard Geckos are nocturnal and rarely see the sun in their native Pakistan. Therefore they don’t need uv in captivity. It certainly won’t hurt to expose them to it though. If there is a uv light over it’s cage make sure the gecko has somewhere to hide where it is nice and dark.
Generally speaking, when Leopard Geckos dont eat it is environment related. Either it is too hot or too cool. We suggest strongly that you go get a decent digital thermometer from Walmart or Home Depot. It needs to RANGE from 95 on one side to low 70s on the cool side. If it is a small tank this is hard to do. If it is 95 on one side and 85 on the other the animal cannot cool down and will enter a state where they wont eat until it cools down. On the other hand if it is too cool, maybe 80s on one end to 60s on the other they might not eat as they know they cannot digest properly.
This is a common misconception. The calci-sand or similar substrate is not a substitute for calcium supplementation. For one thing it is NOT digestible like the manufacturer would have you believe. And if you do not supplement with calcium dusted crickets the gecko WILL eat the sand and could become impacted.
Leopard Geckos – www.reptilecare.com